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The journey of milk in Val Rendena: between Trentingrana and formai da mót
Food & drink

The journey of milk in Val Rendena: between Trentingrana and formai da mót

Madonna di Campiglio
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The pastures of Val Rendena and the peaks of the Dolomiti di Brenta do not only offer magnificent scenery, but are the starting point of a dairy tradition that defines the rural landscape of Trentino. When it comes to local cheeses, it is essential to understand the journey that milk takes from high-altitude meadows to our tables.

The dairy network and Trentingrana

A frequent assumption is that the numerous malghe (alpine farms) scattered throughout the Parco Naturale Adamello Brenta directly produce Trentingrana. In reality, this famous hard cheese is the result of a different and well-structured supply chain. The milk is delivered to the Consorzio's network of cooperative dairies, where cheesemakers process the product collected from dozens of valley floor stables and alpine pastures. The transformation takes place in traditional copper cauldrons, followed by a slow aging process on wooden boards. It is a collaborative effort that unites the Trentino farming community under a single, rigorous set of production guidelines.

High-altitude treasures: Formai da mót

What is produced, then, directly among the summer pastures? The true protagonist of the malghe is the "formai da mót" (mountain cheese). At high altitude, the milk milked at dawn and dusk is processed artisanally on site, without being brought down to the valley.

In addition to this cheese, the summer production offers other specialties:

  • Malga butter: recognizable by its intense straw-yellow color, due to the natural concentration of beta-carotene found in the fresh flowers and herbs grazed by the cows.
  • Ricotta and fresh cheeses: consumed after just a few days, they carry the herbaceous aroma of the pasture and, in some historical structures, the slight hint of the wood fire used to heat the milk.

A matter of seasons: the cheesemakers' calendar

To navigate the flavors of the Giudicarie, one must respect the agricultural calendar. While Trentingrana rests for a long time in the aging rooms and the formai da mót tells the story of the summer blooming, other cheeses follow opposite seasonal rhythms.

Spressa delle Giudicarie DOP, to be clear, is not a summer alpine cheese: its production takes place from September 10 to June 30. With a minimum aging period of 3 months (which rises to 6 for the "stagionata" version), it is not a cheese to be consumed freshly made during the autumn months, but rather represents the fruit of the milk collected during the cooler periods. Distinguishing between these processes allows one to interpret the Trentino territory through its authentic flavors.

Photo: Mattia Marinangeli / Unsplash · License Unsplash License — Madonna di Campiglio, Trentino (verificata)

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